How much does polished concrete cost?
Polished concrete runs $3 to $12 per square foot depending on grit level and dye. The ready-mix itself is $110 to $205 per cubic yard, with most of the US between $130 and $180 — published sources disagree by nearly two to one. For sizing, a 1,000 sq ft floor is a multi-pass job across several grit levels. Get two local quotes before budgeting.
- Typical thickness
- the existing slab; polishing removes only a thin surface layerpolished concrete
- Typical strength
- 3ASTM C39 at 28 days
- Routine clean
- pH-neutralpreserves sealer
- Reseal interval
- 2–5 yearsvaries with exposure and product
Short version
- Sweep or vacuum before any wet cleaning; grinding grit underfoot scratches sealed surfaces.
- pH-neutral cleaners preserve sealer. Alkaline degreasers work on oil but shorten sealer life.
- Oil needs a degreaser or a poultice — pressure washing alone drives it deeper and spreads the stain.
- Acid etching strips sealer and roughens the surface permanently; it is a preparation step, not a cleaning step.
- Dry grinding or cutting concrete generates respirable crystalline silica, regulated by OSHA at a 50 µg/m³ PEL.
What is the right routine for cleaning a concrete floor?
Start dry. Sweep or vacuum the whole surface before introducing any water, because loose grit turns into an abrasive slurry that scratches sealer and polished finishes. Then damp mop or rinse using a pH-neutral cleaner diluted per the label.
The reason for pH-neutral is sealer life. Strongly alkaline degreasers and acidic cleaners both attack the sealer film, so a floor cleaned aggressively every week will need resealing years earlier than one cleaned gently. Rinse afterward and remove the dirty water rather than letting it evaporate in place, or the dissolved soil simply redeposits.
How do you get oil out of concrete?
Oil has to be lifted chemically, not blasted. Water and pressure spread oil across the surface and drive it deeper into the pore structure, which is why a pressure-washed oil stain often ends up larger and lighter rather than gone.
Use a degreaser or an absorbent poultice. A poultice is an absorbent powder mixed with a solvent into a paste, spread over the stain, covered, and left to draw the oil back out as it dries — usually a day or more, and often repeated. Fresh spills respond to cat litter or an oil-absorbent compound applied immediately. Old stains that have been there for years may never come out completely.
When does concrete need resealing?
Most sealers last two to five years, but the honest test is water rather than the calendar. Sprinkle water on the surface: if it beads, the sealer is intact; if it soaks in and darkens the concrete, the sealer is gone and the slab is absorbing whatever lands on it.
Exposure sets the interval. A south-facing driveway that takes UV, freeze-thaw cycles and deicing salt wears far faster than a covered patio. Reseal before the film fails completely, because once the surface is absorbing, staining and freeze-thaw damage start working on the concrete itself.
Common mistakes
- Pressure washing an oil stain first — water spreads oil and drives it deeper; degrease before any water touches it
- Using acid as a routine cleaner — it strips sealer and etches the surface permanently
- Dry grinding without dust control — respirable crystalline silica is regulated by OSHA at a 50 µg/m³ PEL with a 25 µg/m³ action level
Also asked as
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Sources (4)
- OSHA — Respirable Crystalline Silica — Construction (29 CFR 1926.1153) (accessed Mon Aug 17 2026 00:00:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time))
- OSHA — Concrete and Concrete Products — Controlling Hazards (accessed Mon Aug 17 2026 00:00:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time))
- NRMCA — Concrete in Practice series (accessed Mon Aug 17 2026 00:00:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time))
- International Concrete Repair Institute — Surface preparation and repair guidelines (accessed Mon Aug 17 2026 00:00:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time))